In Delhi
Heat: Currently (11:08 a.m.) it’s 80 degrees, projected to be 100 today, and frequently in the 90s well after sunset. The weather plays a large role in our daily routines: Everything we do is in anticipation of the heat or a gambit to avoid the heat. We spend the afternoons, the hottest part of the day, at our hosts’ house, lounging and reading, sometimes napping, which feels decadent. The heat dampens my appetite, and I find myself eating when I am not hungry, which feels gluttonous. It’s hard to take advantage of the coolest part of the day (8-11 a.m.) as the markets don’t typically get going until 11, but finding something to do early in the day can be a rich reward. Last week we took a morning walk in Lodhi Gardens, a large public park spotted with beautiful mausoleums of the Mughal era. Like many of the old sites of Delhi they are built in red stone with a mixed Persian and Hindu style, and in a state of mid- to advanced decay; the artisans who would once have been trained in the upkeep and restoration of the advanced masonry and detail work required to keep these places up are, like the Mughals, long gone.
The cinema: We went to the theater last week to escape the heat and to take in a Bollywood movie. When we go to the theater we were made to wait in the waiting room until seating time, and I noticed all of the theater patrons were young men, most of them teenagers, except for one girl, on a date. The previews were all geared towards young men: one of them (“Prince,” whose posters coincidentally reminded me of the cover of “Purple Rain”) seemed to be about an Indian pop singer who doubles as a daring bank robber with a flashy motorcycle. Then the movie started, and within thirty seconds my girlfriend realized we were watching a Hindi-dubbed version of “Clash of the Titans.” The only words I understood were “Zeus,” “Hades,” “Prometheus,” “Andromeda,” and “Cracken.”
Traffic: Our hosts used the traffic as an example of the essential Western experience in India, which is a balancing act between propriety and disorder. Traffic moves as a school of fish, or a herd, anarchic and weirdly logical at the same time. Cars merge and weave among one another, always jockeying for the best position, always looking to pass the slower rickshaws or buses that stop suddenly to pick people up, using the oncoming lanes to pass and then gently sliding into the flow with just feet to spare, and never more than a foot between cars on either side. “Horn” is used as a verb here, and “Horn Please” is painted in on the back of nearly every public vehicle, frequently in bright, florid colors over a detailed pattern of lotus flowers; car horns, of which there is an amazing variety, play out in a wild symphony on the busy roads.





Last Wednesday marked the passing of the diminutive character actor 